before playing a gig to an amazing group of people, who then fed me excellent Polish vodka. We talked long into the night, until the point where they got up to leave to stay elsewhere because they had given up their bed for me to stay in!
In Berlin previously, I stayed in the amazing apartment of a girl who I have never met, who wasn't even there but simply gave me her keys. Before that in Hamburg, I was treated not exactly like a princess (I don't think princesses are allowed to laugh so much or get so drunk) but certainly hosted with charm, grace and excellent food (and drink). In Rotterdam, Renia - another total stranger, gave up her time, her space and was warm and welcoming beyond belief. I am blown away by the way people are inviting me into their lives. If your faith in human nature and society ever falters, simply wander off and throw yourself upon the kindness of strangers. Even the slightly strange lady who worked at the campsite in Wrzsenia ( I camped one night so far) was jolly lovely. Hurrah to you all.
So, Berlin. Seems like a long while ago now...I love Berlin and as ever, had an amazing time there. Intersoup is a great place, very Berlin; cosy, kitsch and cooler than I'll ever be. Here would be a picture of their soup, but I ate it too quickly - I hope you can tell it was ace.
The gig was funny, brilliant and surreal - a hot Saturday night in a basement playing to a handful of people who were a very interactive audience. Ray the Australian told me some interesting forays into the world of Berlin bureaucracy (sorry Germans, you know I love you and I hate to reinforce stereotypes but his
tale will make it into a song as it made me laugh a lot.) He also sang me some of his own, spontaneous, fake Italian opera, fabulous.
The highlight of the night though, was this comment from beautiful Danish actress Katrin, who was on holiday with her boyfriend - I think it might be the biggest compliment ever:
I make pregnant women feel drunk.
I have achieved.
I then moved on to Wrzesnia.
I stuck a cyberpin into Googlemaps halfway between Berlin and Warsaw, and this is where I found.
Through the joy of the internet and satellite navigation I found a hidden campsite (there are signs on all the main roads to it, which then stop as you reach the final, vital directions). Super cheap and with a small open air communal area, the woman at the desk, after first looking a mite suspicious, then agreed that it would be a lovely idea if I played some songs in the evening. Alas, this was not to be. Having wandered to the town centre, I experienced the biggest thunder and lightning storm I have ever been in. No photos, as I was hidden for a while under big beer umbrellas in the town square, and then engaged in the process of dodging from shelter to shelter on the way back to my tent (after my fingers went blue). Hatches were battoned, shelter was taken.
Post storm the next day, I continued my wanderings. There is a huge photographic project taking place in Wrzesnia.
Outside in the square, pictures taken by Franciszek Wlosik show the town in the early 1900's. I love the 'tache of the man in the front row (reminds me of Hamburg) and the disapproving look of the woman in black.
In the local museum, I met Ewa, the curator. Inside the museum gallery, photographers have been invited to exhibit pictures that show aspects of the town. Ewa is standing next to her favorite picture - a photograph of the house of a man who had decided to sell televisions. They are lined up outside his house like dominos. As Ewa said, she finds it not the most beautiful, but the most interesting scene from this picturesque town with some darker moments in it's history....
Historical fact of the day? Wrzesnia is the place of the children's revolution. Ewa told me this and I love the story. In 1901, under Prussian rule, children were supposed to be taught in German, including religious instruction. The children of the school in Wrzesnia got together and refused to take classes in German, even when they were physically beaten by the authorities. The strike then spread to other neighbourhoods and lasted until 1904. In 1908 a film was made of the strike by French film makers - who referred to the children as 'The Polish Martyrs' (though none of them died from the beatings).
Ewa's own story of Wzresnia is much more beautiful. Her love for the town is so evident, in her speech and in the care with which she showed me around. She moved away once and felt like she had to come back, to 'her' town. As the museum curator, she has a responsibility to the preservation of the town's history and she does this with pride. Her own son is now growing up in this place that she loves - although he is not a revolutionary (so far!)
Onward, onward through traffic jams aplenty (Small rant coming, skip if you like). TRAFFIC. I may never drive again, the guilt is too immense. Through three countries in Europe I keep seeing almost empty cars, roadworks widening autobahns and autostradas to fit in more empty cars, traffic in every direction and people just ignoring what it means. I don't know how else I could have taken a piano, PA, ukulele, tent, camping equipment, clothes, food etc around Europe but if sitting in all this traffic makes me think, then surely some of the people in cars around me must be considering their transport methods too? Buy a bike, take a train, get a pair of skates. I love the tiny jeep, and I did research that it was better than flying, but this is a one off. Back to public transport in blighty. Sorry. But I do feel better now... and so to......
WARSAW!
Warsaw, you have earned your capital letters and bold font, mainly due to my unbloominbelievably brilliant hosts, Kathi and Wojtek, seen above with friends Lars and Julia. I have already mentioned the brilliant food, fun and music that we shared. What I don't quite know how to start with is the stories I heard from them. Maybe I will take this photo as a starting point to tell you about them individually...
But not tonight as I have no more internet time or energy. Instead - deal with the unbearable anticipation with a picture of a Polish bear. (I'm really sorry about the pun. Honestly.)
Hearty greetings from "child of Wrzesnia". I have lived close to the campsite for most of my life, so you've probably passed my family home. I love your crazy idea of joining three great pleasures in human's life: food, music and travelling. Take care!
ReplyDeleteTomek