Showing posts with label holidays. Show all posts
Showing posts with label holidays. Show all posts

Saturday, 28 August 2010

Wunderbar Wallhalben

Wallhalben is, I have discovered, the German equivalent to Co. Down (where my Northern Irish family home is). Why? It’s beautifully green with gentle landscapes and a bit of rain (at least when I was there), it’s famed for potatoes and dairy farming and, most importantly, its inhabitants are warm and wonderful as toast and fond of good food and good drink. I felt very much at home. Ok – so maybe in Co. Down I don’t swim in a pool at the top of a hill like I did in Wallhalben…

The Maurer family have been in this tiny village (900 inhabitants) for generations. Hans and Gertrude (either end of the photo below) were born here, at home, after their parents came to the village as a young couple. Hans grew up with the village, its life and its ways. He briefly lived elsewhere but he and his wife Ulla (next to Hans in the same photo) came back when they had children. They built a house at the top of the hill, from where you can see all of the surrounding area.

Maybe the best thing about Wallhalben, is the fact that it is very much ‘alive’ unlike similar villages in the area and indeed in Europe. There are working farms, shops, community; it isn’t merely a commuter nest. Oh, that and the amazing dialect, which of course I learned. Almost all the Germans I met had no idea where Wallhalben is. Those that know it told me I would have a hard time understanding anything. I had a crash course in Wallhalbenisch and will demonstrate this to anyone who cares to hear (and probably those who don’t as well). I think if it were English it would be a bit like Yorkshire or rural Northern Irish, fittingly.

What to tell about my visit? It was basically one big party. We ate: amazing slow cooked beef, dumplings, bratkartoffeln (like sautéed potatoes), four kinds of cake, ten kinds of cooked meats, cheeses, pickles, breads. We drank: Prosecco, beer, wine, whiskey - we had an amazing blind whisky tasting, that I and Christina (second from right at the back)  won. 





There was music - Christina is a friend of the Maurers’ and a soprano who sings classical and gospel music in choirs and with a group. We played together; German songs, English songs and American songs. (I forgot my music stand - of course - but our human music stand did a great job). I played solo also and then somehow ended up doing an acapella performance of Irish folk. Like I said, it really was like being at home. 



Little Wallhalben tales


Ulla took me on a wonderful walk, on which I found this little slow worm and sent him on his way with a cheery 'auf wiedersehen'. 


Wallhalben Area Emergencies


In Zweibrucken (the next town), on the morning I was in Wallhalben, the entire town was evacuated by the fire service because an unexploded WW2 bomb was found near the foundations of a school that was being built.


The fire service were also called to evacuate a street last year, not for a bomb, but for fruitflies. For an as yet unknown reason, a plague of the flies swarmed along just one street to the extent where it was unpassable. It didn't happen anywhere else, has never happened before or since. Scientists are apparently writing reports, humming and hahing about it. The fruit flies are long gone. 

Sunday, 8 August 2010

The Golden Handshoes - A Hamburg Tale

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The Reaperbahn. The biggest redlight and nightlife area and Europe. The guidebooks may advise you against. But why deny the joy of...



Neon to the point of blindness. 
Prostitutes in flesh-coloured dance tights, leggings and trainers (revealing but practical). 
A 'men only' street, where cups of bodily fluids are kept on hand by all the working girls, to throw at non-working girls who try to get in (although why would they?)
The biggest sex shop in Europe. (Entry ticket is a condom, 1euro)
Constant Eurotrashdancemusik.
A fairground with rollercoasters and hogroasters. 
Germans from all over the area, here on a night out, many wearing less clothing than the prostitutes - much less. 




In amongst this glorious chaos, there is a jewel in Hamburg's crown. In the main platz, people spill out of bars like blood from wounds. The crush is immense. Getting a drink from the bar seems like an impossibility. But we (my guides, Micha and Tim, and I) spot a bar that seems quieter than the rest. We go in. I am reminded of the scene in police academy - the 'taches, the mullets, the tattoos, the skull and crossbones headscarves. The intense stares. But there is space at the bar, so we order mexicanas (like a bloody mary but with added spices and added tequila). As we eavesdrop on conversations, it transpires that this is no place to cruise. These men have wives (at home). They just came to dance, and dance they do - mainly to michael jackson (no more europop!). 


In the corner, an immaculately dressed elderly man with elegant hair surveys the scene. He sings along to MJ with emotion (and some gentle swaying). He has a pipe, we give him a light. A camaraderie is established. A moment later a large, mulleted man offers me a seat. There are smiles. Micha and I dance to Thriller. Fear not. The men of the Goldenen Handschuh didn't come  to fight, they just came to party. 



Wednesday, 21 July 2010

Beestings & Sings

Performance on Saturday was great fun, despite a double incidence of stinging to me and to my roadie. Does
it really need to hurt that much (or am I just a wee bit nesh)? Played outside until sunset, despite the scary insects, to a lovely crowd of people.











Am now excited to the point of bursting about going away - two weeks! I have a new passport with an obligatorily awful photo, my ferry place is booked and the small red jeep (I will put a picture of it up soon) is booked into some hideously expensive garage for a service. Men in overalls are probably staring at it right and now and shaking their heads in a knowing fashion.... Hurrah!

Monday, 19 July 2010

Arnold Circus Sharing Picnic


This is Arnold Circus, a bandstand and public space where I live. Sunday 18th was the celebration of it's centenary, with a day of music, stories, food and sharing (sharing of cake especially, brilliant). This amazing place is going to be one of the locations for my stories of Europe and travel to be told and sung on my return to the UK. This is a little snapshot of why I wanted to bring stories here...


Storytelling is at the heart of this area and on www.spitalfieldslife.com you can read
new stories every day about the life of Arnold Circus and it's inhabitants. This very nice man (whose name I'm very sorry but can't remember) was giving out some of the stories at the picnic. War stories, immigration, changing and growing communities and even visits from a certain Mr W. Shakespeare are documented on the site.



Graphic designer Alexandre Bettler (www.aalex.info) lives locally and the poems of Arnold Circus from his stand will be up on his site soon.

Being a bandstand, there was music all day at the circus, including by Eastend locals Brassroots. They were all amazing but their Tuba player was practically inhuman, lips of steel, I think. If my computer starts behaving again, I'll upload a video soon...



Finally, this is a message from an Arnold Circus resident about the future of life here and elsewhere, which I loved. I can't wait to add my stories and songs to this place.