Rae on the Isle of Ré

At La Rochelle airport, I bade a fond farewell to SST, who rushed back to Blighty for the InterAct fundraiser. After a less than amusing episode (where I lost my credit card, my only source of funds, and found myself trapped in the carpark, so emptied out my entire car and found it jammed into a PA speaker), I headed across the causeway joining the mainland to Ile de Ré.

Named for the ferns that grow on the island, famed for salt, selfish and monks, huge amounts of this beautiful, tiny island are nature reserves. I camped by the Cote Sauvage and wandered to the sea, taking in the stillness and amazing wildlife. 

How wonderful to be so close to nature, to contemplate, to commune…Later that evening when I was ‘sauvaged’ by some very nasty creatures – through my clothes! – I began to feel a little more ambivalent towards nature.

In the town, I had a very French experience. The village near me is called St Clement des Baleines (St Clement of the whales, because lots of whales got washed up there) and it has one cafe. The first night I went there and in my best French with my smiliest smile, I ordered food and drink. The man who served me (and, it turned out, owns the place) looked at me with hatred and disdain.  A wee bit bemused, later I ordered coffee and this time got no response at all, merely a derisive nod. 

The next day, I returned there (only one cafe remember) but this time I changed tactic. I sat down and didn't look up until the man eventually sauntered towards me. With a shrug of my shoulders and a disdainful glance, I jerked a thumb towards the dish I wanted on the menu, turned back to my book and waited.  The same man (or his twin brother?) brought my food with a gleeful smile and a 'Bon Appetit', afterwards asked me if I enjoyed it and then wished me a good day. Brilliant. 

So what else did I do on Re? I climbed the 257 steps up to the top of the famous lighthouse, and then about 245 down (I did some jumping as no-one was around and I am five). I ate oysters and whisky flavour ice-cream (but not together). I paddled and swam, I thought about thinking and stories and writing….

Then I drove to Palluau.